Tea notes : aromatic, refreshing, elusive and varying. On this KNOW YOUR NOTES Friday we talk about tea notes and blends created using these leaves. I researched quite a bit before putting together a post. Tea fragrances as observed tend to be more abstract as opposed to other fragrances due to the fact that they always feature additional complementary fragrant notes that highlight the tea notes, for example a citrus accord or hints of mint, much like the tea we drink. Tea notes may not be obvious by themselves as their inclusion is mostly focussing on stimulating the "feeling" of it rather than simply the smell. Tea is usually classified as green or black and tea scents feature both these varieties in their ingredients. Most scents tend to range from being leafy, tannic, sweet, herbal or citrus but all of them are definitely refreshing. Tea plantation is native to East and South Asia but the culture of tea has travelled across the world.
Sublime by Carolina Herrera was launched in the summer of 2013. While it is a scent obviously intended to complement femininity, elegance, charm and so on it is also intended to be vintage inspired at the same time, but with a modern twist. 'Sublime' as the name suggests is refers to something as being elevated (it's propped up on a luxe sofa in its campaign), of great beauty and awe inspiring . This is evident in the purple colour they chose to give the bottle which is regal and the interesting juxtaposition of a bow against the leather, in order to represent the modern woman. The fragrance immediately reveals the sweet and tender aroma of Passion flower and bergamot in its top notes. The heart of this fragrance adds to the sweet floral trend with rich orchids and rose that make the core. The floral top notes trail into a base comprised of resinous and warm amber, a slight earthiness from patchouli and oakmoss and leather. Leather is the interesting and much required ingredient in the base that adds finesse and that old World charm. This one has wide appeal and resonates with women of all ages.
And we have some Gucci for all the men (and women) out there! Gucci Guilty pour homme Intense is the 2011 launch after the acclaimed Guilty pour homme. There is very slight difference from Guilty in the Intense version with more spicy inclusions, and deeper floral middle notes. The top notes start off with an immediate and the very obvious lavender due to its spicy floral whiff coupled with green spiciness from coriander and citrus from lemon. Middle notes are more apparent once the initial spray slightly dries down. They comprise of African orange flower and neroli, neroli being the new addition to Guilty pour homme Intense as opposed to Guilty pour homme. Virginia cedar in the base notes adds a hint of woodiness and patchouli adds a hint of woody sweetness. Amber is the new addition and it adds resinous warmth to the blend. This one is definitely 'intensely' spicy thanks to the abundant lavender which is in fact all I take back from it. It's not the most unique or complex fragrance for men out there with a fairly common men's cologne profile. It could be great for once in a while wear maybe if chosen for a very specific evening and preferably when the weather is cool. This one is warm and spicy and cozy which would be perfect in that case!
This one I'm excited about primarily because it's the very latest launch as new as September 2014, and the campaigns feature two of the world's most legendary muses Kate Moss and the young Cara Delevingne. One of the most exciting things about My Burberry by Burberry is in fact it's super campaign shot by Mario Testino....it surely helped to build the hype and in turn maybe influence your perception of this fragrance. So while a strong media presentation coupled with a strong theme "Burberry trench in a bottle" creates the surrounding hype, the fragrance in itself is a winner for me! The composition of this fragrance is very lingering and floral...top notes hit with sweet pea combined with citrusy notes of bergamot and mandarin orange. This trails into the vibrant middle notes comprised of geranium, silky smooth floralcy of freesia and quince that adds a slight fruitness. The base notes of this fragrance are not your typical supporting/accentuating ingredients that barely scream their presence in fact the dry down is even more lingering with floral freshness complete with patchouli and rose. They intended this one to be a scent that reminds you of the London rain, the garden after a shower,light, earthiness...I will say it achieves it all and dry down really lets these feelings linger on.
Today I'm reviewing Vanitas by Versace. It was launched in 2011. When it's first sprayed what immediately struck my is a sweet scrumptious luminous bright whiff that's slightly cosmetic. This one is definitely more synthetic than natural smelling yet pleasant nevertheless. The top notes are very slightly citrusy from lime however it's the middle notes that dominate abundant with freesia and tiare flower. These trail into the base notes comprising of pleasantly lingering tonka bean and Virginia cedar. This one is a fragrance that does not necessarily have much recall value due to the fact that it's neither distinctive nor rare in essence but this works from the point of view that it is easy to relate to, pleasant and very feminine.
Today we discuss the wonder ingredient Patchouli!
Patchouli is a a herb that belongs to the mint family, predominantly grows in India and it's name is derived from the Indian language called Tamil such that 'patchai' means green and 'ellai' means leaf. The essential oil produced from its fragrant leaves has been a staple in many perfumery blends over centuries. The craze for this sweet, dark, with an earthy woody edge odor emitting herb began in the Europe and America during the 60s and 70s. This when combined with oriental, woody or floral musky combinations creates something truly amazing. Which ones are your favorite Pathouli dominant fragrances?
Romance by Ralph Lauren is a fragrance created and launched in 1998. This one is a fragrance that makes you reminisce, it makes you remember the first time you were gifted this perfume or the first time you smelled it in store or the first time you wore your first real fragrance. This one seems to have an element of pleasant and happy nostalgia attached to it. It is perhaps owing to its sweet flowery uncomplicated blend that is feminine and warm like a scent that reminds you of your mom. It starts off with a luminescent burst of flowery notes of yellow freesia and rose with a hint of spiciness from ginger and citrus from lemon along with herbal smell from chamomile. The heart of this fragrance is a bouquet of lily, carnation, white violet and lotus. These abundant flowery notes trail into the base notes which comprise of slight woodiness, patchouli and oak moss and white musk just to finish the entire composition gently. This one stays true to its name and is in every sense very romantic and lingering and not over bearing.
Today I will be reviewing Invictus by Paco Rabanne, the fragrance launched by the house in 2013. This one has a bold presentation in terms of its packaging and the campaign that highlights it's sporty inspiration which is also reflected by its trophy shaped bottle. However one would expect it to be as fresh and bold and confident as it presented and it slightly disappoints in that aspect. The top notes open with a fresh citrus splash made from grapefruit, aquatic notes and mandarin orange. That's not a bad opening combination for a sporty men's fragrance however it is tad too sweet and does not carry as much of an impact as one would expect. Middle notes are dominant with jasmine and bay leaf which are again light and almost feminine. The base notes add that much required depth with guaiac wood which has a rose like woody odour, coupled with patchouli another constant in sweet fruity-flowery fragrances, oak moss and ambergris. The entire concoction though intended to be fresh and aquatic somehow feels slightly sweet and synthetic. Though not unpleasant by any means I guess this one just falls tad short of my personal expectations from Paco Rabanne.
Crystal Noir by Versace launched in 2004 is one I am excited to review. For starters I can still smell it on my skin after precisely 12 hours of spraying it, so that says leaps about its longevity. Also the name is very fitting because it really did inspire my mood to wear it last night for a formal poker do, complete with a sense of mystery and feminine spiciness. On spraying the heavily spicy top notes hit you, they are from ginger, cardamom and pepper and these actually stay even after the dry down. It's middle notes are sweet and flowery from African orange flower, peony and gardenia. The surprise is creamy coconut that really softens the entire spicy floral mix. Base notes are relatively standard but really pull together the entire concoction. They are musk, sandalwood and amber. For me this one is a perfectly balanced combination of luminous and sensual.
Eau De Sensuelle by Lacoste is the latest launch following the 2013 launched Eau De Lacoste. The top notes comprising of pink pepper and black current, are based on typical fruity-flowery combination that is easy on the nose yes but also very commercial. The top notes and the middle profile have maintained similarity to the original with sharpness from the black current fading into clean elegance of Turkish rose, combined with unique floralcy from gladiolus and sweet pea. It all seemed slightly run of the mill until I left it sprayed on the strip and smelt it at the end of the day. I was so pleasantly surprised with the smooth rich base notes shining through that heavily infused with creamy nougat and amber. It is definitely the dry down of this scent which makes it special. So while it may not be the most sensual scent of all times the vanilla smooth creaminess of nougatine shines through to justify the name Eau De Sensuelle.
Modern muse by Estée Lauder for women was launched in 2013. Modern muse has been the first major perfume launch from the fashion house in the last decade. This fragrance is intended to be the fragrance for modern strong willed and self assured woman of today. There is a duality that has been tried to achieve in the composition Modern Muse. One aspect are floral jasmine notes that start with sparkling mandarin orange, lily, honeysuckle, tuberose, jasmine sambac and Chinese jasmine. These trail into the contrasting yet complimentary woody aspect of the fragrance. Base notes are formed by sleek woody accords that include patchouli, amber and musk. All in all a feminine new fragrance that's both graceful and infused with modern accords.
Flights of Fancy by Anna Sui launch year 2007, sounds as dreamy as the bottle looks and the fragrance smells. All of Anna Sui fragrance bottles are distinctive and romantic and this one is inspired by a peacock which displays it's beauty proud and self assured much like a girl that blossoms into a woman. The fragrance is luminous as the concept behind it, the top notes burst of litchi, yuzu and lemon. Flights of Fancy opens with citrus fruity notes and these are followed with floral notes of freesia and rose. The bottom notes are smooth and mild like the top and middle notes with amber and musk and white wood inclusions. Overall this one is a romantic feminine artistic and smooth fragrance.
Today the focus is on Man In Black by Bvlgari. This is the newest launch from Bvlgari as new as 2014. Man in black has been launched to celebrate 130 years of existence of Bvlgari. The fragrance was announced as bold and inspired by the myth of the birth of Vulcan, the god of earth but interpreted in a way that it suits and inspired the modern man. This fragrance is definitely modern with an unusual combination of ingredients of rum and pepper in the top notes that tease your nose. It trails into the middle notes with leather and tube rose as well as iris inclusions. The dry down of this fragrance is it's best part in my opinion...it's formed by guaiac wood, tonka bean and benzoin. This one is an inspiring modern fragrance that will surely resonate with many men.
Today I am reviewing the 2010 fragrance Love by Chloe. This fragrance is predominantly powdery floral with fresh green notes. The top notes include orange flower and pink pepper and trail into the middle notes that are heavily floral due to a blend of iris, lilac, wisteria, hyacinth and heliotrope. The base notes are infused with muskiness and the dry down is sweet and powdery. This fragrance is old school classic feminine and soft.
Black Orchid by Tom Ford is a gem...a rare black gem! It was launched in 2006 and has continued to intrigue men and women alike till today. This fragrance was touted to be opulent and classically dark, a little strange and sensual at the same time...and one can completely vouch that it is all this and much more! The top notes are heavy with French jasmine, black current, ylang ylang, bergamot and citrus and the luxe black truffle. It's the heart of this fragrance that give it it's name. Middle notes are dominant with black orchid and spicy-sweet notes. Base notes are being dominated with heavy woody smells from patchouli, sandalwood, amber, vetiver, vanilla and dark chocolate. It is this complex concoction of luxurious ingredients that make this fragrance so irresistible. This ones not for the faint hearted!
Today the focus is on Lavender...and the oil is used in the production of perfumes. French lavender (lavandula angustifolia ) has a sweet floral aroma while Dutch lavender (lavandula intermedia) contains higher levels of terpenes so has a stronger aromatic sharp almost spicy odor. Lavandin, extracted from Dutch lavender gives very refreshing notes. The exact odor profile of lavender varies depending upon the source it came from, the altitude and distillation techniques. It typically grows in sunny and stony habitats and is native to mountainous zones of Mediterranean. Today it travels to perfumery houses across the globe from Europe, Australia and United States.
Weekend by Burberry was created and launched in 1997 that's 17 summers ago! This one has a relaxed effortless and country vibe to it. It is dedicated to the weekend on the country side and rightly so due to its smooth flowery notes. The top notes start off with mignonette, zesty mandarin orange and sage. The core of this fragrance are heavily infused with violet root, nectarine, iris, peach blossom and rose hip. This cocktail of delicate floral scents remind you of flower fields. Once the fragrance dries down one can smell sandalwood and cedar with hint of musk. This fragrance had a wide appeal and will still resonate among women of today.
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I am Avantika Bedi.
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